Summit of Lhotse 8401m (world's 4th highest peak)

So, the summit has been reached, and now i am back safe in Kathmandu. I am now one of very few Britons who have climbed Lhotse, the youngest Brit woman and perhaps even the youngest woman to have ever climbed it. But that doesn't say anything about the experience itself.... As with these less poplar mountains, my summit day was completely void of other climbers- - whilst on Everest there have been hundreds of people going up at a time. In fact, we could look out from our route on Lhotse and see the climbers going up Everest- a line of head torches stretching for nearly a 1000m upwards- whereas we were totally alone with an entire mountain to ourselves. No one on our team of 4 (2 foreigners and 2 sherpas) had been on Lhotse before, so we were all excited to be climbing into the unknown for the first time together. I found a rhythm and was determined not to rush or get out of breath- i found our pace very peaceful and after a while I fell into a routine that went on an on for hours without us stopping. I felt really strong and alert, and at no point did i feel like i was climbing in the 'death zone', despite Lhotse being a massive 8401m in height. The climb gains the summit via a Couloir that seemed to go on forever- I can remember looking up and it seemed never ending. The couloir is usually covered in snow, but this year it was mostly a rock climb- dry loose rock that we would have to step so delicately over so as not to cause it to crumble and fall off down the Lhotse face. Eventually we reached the summit slopes and suddenly the comforting enclosure of the couloir was replaced by the breathtaking exposure of the steep open summit field- you could look between your feet and see down for miles, look to either side and the drops were huge- a mistake here would have ended in an almighty fall. But it was also absolutely stunning- the sun had turned the sky pink and baby blue- Everest was lit up in the morning glow to my left, it was so quiet and peaceful to watch the sunrise over the HImalayas from a view point that so few have been able to look out from- Everest looked completely different from where we were perched on the Lhotse summit slopes. Finally, a rocky mound maybe 50m in height leads to a snowy crest which is the summit. The rocky mound is a vertical rock climb- i never thought i would be actually rock climbing at 8400m with the himlayas spread out below me. Climbing with mittens, huge boots and an oxygen mask is pretty difficult- but my whole mantra had been to stay calm and keep a rhythm- i stepped my feet down like i was walking on glass, so as not to dislodge the loose rock, and slowly made my way up the 2 pitches of climbing that led to the snowy top. Below my teetering feet was the body of a Czech man- he had died only a few days before, he had simply sat down at the bottom of the rock climb, shut his eyes and died. Looking down and catching glimpses of him made my heart race and gave me a lump in my throat- another fellow climber dead, i tried not to cry and to concentrate on making my way safely upwards. The last few jabs of my crampons into the last patch of snow and suddenly i was hit with the view from the other side of the mountain- it appeared out of nowhere! I was looking over the other side of the mountain into Tibet- i nearly fell off the other side! The summit is so small only 2 people can sit on it at any time. The sun burst into view and the entire world seemed to be at my feet- huge himalayan peaks so small in the distance, the clouds rolling below me like an ocean- and the beautiful colours of the dawn sky- I was the only person in the whole world who had this view, it was the most breathtaking moment of my life- literally, it took my breath away. I was so overwhelmed and shocked by the view before me that i screamed aloud and then screamed again down the radio that i'd made it, Lakpa, then came up behind me and we hugged and i cried as i was so happy that he had made it too- another first summit for him also. We could see people climbing up on Everest, but where were were there was nobody- we sat for a while and just took in the view until our other two climbers reached the top, we all hugged again- 4 tiny humans perched on top of this giant himalayan peak. It took us just under three hours back to our high camp, then straight down to Everest camp2, and base camp the next day. Post expedition thoughts: 60 days to the day, and i was finally on top of the mountain. This has been the hardest trip i have ever done simply in terms of it being a metal struggle. This season on Everest and Lhotse has been hard, with the mountain being out of condition, strong weather systems, avalanches and entire teams packing up and leaving early, We hung on, we prayed, we listened to every piece of news and gossip and hoped that the mountain would at the last minute improve enough for us to climb. There were many times when i thought it was over, but still- something told me to hang in there and trust that we would get our shot. Over half the teams with permits for Lhotse abandoned early this year- but those that stayed were rewarded with the most incredible climb, yes the mountain wasnt in the best climbing condition- but it made it all the more fun and interesting to climb, and so I am very grateful for that. Many people have perished this year, which is devastating. In less than a month I saw three bodies- this is not normal for any 24 year old woman, even one who climbs big mountains. I am so thankful to just be alive and safe and well, and to have been spared by the mountain. For those that weren't so lucky, may they rest in peace- my thoughts and prayers go out to all their loved ones. For now, I just want to go home and be with my family- this season has been a stressful and harrowing experience, and the fact that we made the summit hasnt sunk in yet over the worry that we have dealt with these past 2 months. I want to go home and not go near a mountain for a few weeks at least anyway. I'd like to firstly thank Henry, Kame, Young Lakpa and Lakpa Onju for making our attempt successful, without any glitches and for working so hard against the odds to make sure that the Lhotse climb went ahead, despite the huge amount of attention that Everest required. Bob, my team mate- congratulations man, it was great to share the summit with you. The team at Karrimor for thier support and messages of well wishing throughout, and for supplying kit and finance for the expedition. To TAG Heuer for also supporting the expedition and for supplying me with a great watch that came all the way to the summit and back. To my family and friends- your support and phone calls kept me going when the trip seemed doomed to fail, for the endless weeks of waiting and then through the nerves of beginning the ascent- your messages meant so much, and i really cant wait to get home and enjoy the summer with you- not just hear about it over the phone! Finally, i think ive come a long way since my fall on Everest- i learnt a tough lesson there which i have never forgotten and has made me strive to be the best i can possibly be on the mountain at all times. Climbing a much more technically difficult peak in good style i hope has proved that my determination to be a better mountaineer has paid off. You fall and you pick yourself up again- you learn your lessons and you come back stronger. That's life, and I am so thankful to be alive and able to do this- and that is thanks to so many others, whom I dedicate the success of this climb too. Over and out for now- Bonita.

Lhotse update

Ok a super quick update: Acclimatisation Is pretty much complete- I've been up to 6700m, below camp3, turned back because of strong winds and inadequate clothing on my legs- a pair of leggings!!! In 50knot winds... Don't worry I have proper cold weather clothing at BC. Now it's the 1st May. Apparently at present (this can change at any time) there is no good weather (more strong winds) for the foreseeable future. So our team are deciding on what to do next. I personally am hoping for a trip to Sonams lodge in Pangboche (!) So what's happened since my last blog: First rotation up to camp1 was combined with 2 nights straight after at camp2 (6400m) it was an uneventful few days- a quick descent back to BC did however see us pass a body (RIP)being readied for chopper rescue. A few minutes after we passed the rescue party in the western cwm we came across a crevasse covered in his blood. It was a sobering and rather upsetting day. Just before going back for the second rotation to camp3 a huge search fell and wiped out part of the icefall route. We watched it happen from the safety of base camp. Our Sherpas- true legends In this case- we headed down through the icefall and saw the serac, they knew it was going to go so went back up to a higher camp, made some noodles and as they predicted it fell a few hours later. Their judjement probably saved their lives and shows we are in good hands. The next day we climbed through the icefall over the avalanche debris and through to camp2 with no problems. It was the next day as we sat in the mess tent that we hear the most almighty crack- rushing out of the tent we saw a huge avalanche cascade right into the western cwm and as the dust cloud exploded we watched as people- little ants in the distance- became engulfed in white. I was sure I was watching people be buried alive. The dust cloud was so big It dusted us as camp2 and our friends down in the icefall probably over a mile away. Incredibly not a single person died. A miracle. It was 10am and so a busy time in the cwm- camp1 was obliterated but amazingly no one was there at the time. We assumed a mass grave. We still can't believe that just by chance camp1 was unusually quiet. There was one casualty who was blown by the shock wave into a crevasse and got airlifted to hospital in kathmandu. Our Sherpas along with others found him and rob, our team doctor, was first on scene with medical help. After our jaunt up to the lhotse face in strong winds (I turned back pretty early from the winds) we made a safe descent back to BC (yesterday) and all feeling excited for what lays ahead. I'll say again- I am prepared to Turn back at any moment if the route is not safe. And will not take any risks with weather- if a window doesn't come then that would be pretty tough to stomach but if that's the mountains then I accept that they don't necessarily have the same agenda as I do! Lastly, our team is great- I'm in full health and everything is Going to plan. We just need the winds to calm and maybe then we can take a shot at the summit. Fingers crossed! We have to leave now and head back up from this little village with Internet access back to base camp before dark- thanks for all the messages of support. And family- if you are worrying please stop, as I keep telling you I am the most risk averse climber ever! If it's not safe I am Not going anywhere. Love to all, Bonita

Lhotse pre-expedition thoughts

Island Peak

I am buzzing because I have just ticked my third peak in the Solukhumbu, a beautiful mountain called Island Peak.

At over 6000m Island Peak is an expedition in itself- requiring days of hiking through the khumbu valley, past the village of Chukung and up onto a high plateau, before the summit is gained by a long walk up to the edge of a glacier overnight, from the glacier the bergshrund is reached and then fixed lines lead up steep ice and snow to the summit ridge.

Along the summit ridge and on the summit itself are the most amazing views of Ama Dablam, Lhotse and Baruntse- it is a truly spectacular final few meters. It was a great climb and I owe a big thanks to my good friend Jon Gupta and his company JCG Expeditions for running the exped.

Jon pulled a team of 10 climbers together for the trip, we were a mixture of abilities but all had the most amazing experience. For me, it was the perfect acclimatisation for Lhotse- it was also great fun being in an big team rather than trekking alone as I was thinking of doing before Jon invited me along.

The team have now left and are heading back to Lukla, and from there- kathmandu then home. I said goodbye to them yesterday in Pangboche, and I am still here, missing the banter and the games but also looking forward now to lhotse having gotten some 6000m's of altitude and hopefully a fee extra red blood cells to help me out on the big climb.

Jon has a pretty awesome expedition of his own planned for the summer- check out 'ESL12' on google for more information and to wish him luck with his record breaking attempt of the snow leopard award.

Blog 2:

Lhotse, pre-expedition thoughts

For the first time in two years i am about to attempt another 8000m peak, my third after Manaslu (2009) and Everest (2010).

Lhotse is the world's 4th highest peak, and makes up a significant part of the Everest range- the famous south col route is the point where Lhotse and Everest join- as a result, much of the route to the summit follows the Everest south side route.

At 8501m it is a formidable climb- like the Everest climbers I will be using supplementary oxygen from above camp 3 (in the middle of the Lhotse face), down suit, high altitude boots and expect to be pushed to my physical and mental limits to reach its rocky and jagged summit.

Am I nervous? Yes. I know the route well and am therefore much more aware of the dangers. I am also highly aware of how quickly things can go wrong. Ignorance is bliss and I definitely do not have that on my side this time around- I have seen seracs collapse meters from me in the ice fall. I have past people who were one day alive and a few days later dead. I know how it feels to just try and *breathe* at 8000m. I know the suffering- the extreme weight loss, the exhaustion, the cold.

So why go back? Well, it wasn't all bad. Everest was the most incredible experience and the best two months of my life (thank you VocaLink and Dream Guides/Himalayan Guides). I guess that part of attempting Lhotse is to re-live that experience. The ice fall is deadly but it is also like nothing on Earth- the most beautiful sight is this world of ice bathed in dawn light. The Western Cwm is breathtaking and the feeling of satisfaction at taking the last step into camp 3 after a long day on the lhotse face is indescribable- mainly because you are too exhausted to put the emotion into words.

The absolute best thing is a cup of hot grape Tang being pushed into your hand as you return to base camp after a few days up on the hill. You sit on a rock with the sun on your face, your thirst quenched and you are alive- life is good.

You get used to the cold, the routines of looking after yourself, being safe and as your body continually adapts you get stronger, faster and more psyched for the summit bid. By the time the weather window comes, you and your team mates know each other- you're friends, you know their motives and what makes them want to climb- you want them to achieve their dream just as much as you want yourself to.

The stress of not knowing, and the physical stress on your body as you go through the summit bid probably ages a climber by a good few years. It is not until you take that last step out of the icefall, sit down and take off your helmet and crampons and look back Jo at the world you have managed to escape from do you realise just how much your body has been through. The wright lifted from your shoulders- the memories of the summit forever imprinted in your mind. A cup of grape Tang in your hand. And your thoughts can finally turn to home. The sense of relief is overwhelming.

Beyond that, lhotse is an entirely new challenge. After climbing AMA Dablam last autumn I realised that my technical abilities had improved, I was more skilled and confident and was (thankfully as always) coping well at altitude. Lhotse was now a realistic goal- the summit day is steep, very steep- following a couloir and then a rocky ridge to a tiny summit. It sounds scary, but it also sounds like an incredible climb- and I really want to give it my best shot.

Lastly, I cannot wait to be back in the company of those who make these expeditions possible: Kame Nuru, Padaua, Lakpa Onjchu, Dorjee, Lakpa, Jabu, Bhim, Pasang Temba and Henry and Rob to name but a few.

The risk is there. I cannot say that I have 100% accepted it, as after all- no mountain is worth dying for, and the chance of dying is probably quite significantly higher here than if I was to spend the Spring back in Wokingham. So how do you justify it? I am starting to think people will think I am obsessed with death- but actually, I am just trying to work things out in my head. The truth is- you can't justify a climb like this, it is selfish and risky and a mistake could be finite. I will take each day as it comes- I am ready and willing to turn back at any moment. I know what I have waiting back for me In England- my family and friends, and that is more important than any summit. Staying alive is the most important thing.

For now I am in Pangboche village at Sonam's lodge, aiming to be at base camp this weekend. We start our climb soon after, aiming to summit in one of the weather windows from mid-May onwards.

I'd like to thank karrimor for their continued support and for making this expedition possible, and for the kit that I will use throughout the expedition- including my X-Lite rucksac which has been on many expeditions with me now and is undoubtably the best pac I have used.

TAG Heuer have also been a continued  and valued source of support for my Himalayan climbing, and after wearing an Aqua Racer to the summit of Ama Dablam, I am now hoping that my ceramic ladies watch will withstand the pressure in the death zone- it has so far worked perfectly up to 6100m.

To Dad, Mum, Rob, Maggie, Nanny, Margot, Belinda, all my friends and family- love you and miss you and cannot wait for a summer of BBQ's (why is it that I always crave a BBQ whenever I am out here?!). Love you all. Bxxx

Summit of Ama Dablam (6856m)

(photos not currently working but will be uploaded shortly, check @bonitanorris on twitter for pics in the mean time...)

Having had a few days back in the UK i've finally had some time to digest what has been an incredible expedition to Ama Dabla, which was kindly sponsored and supported by Karrimor and Tag Heuer, and a trip that has never made me feel so alive and so grateful to be a mountaineer.

Ama Dablam is truly the most beautiful mountain I have ever seen, and being face to face with it- climbing that perfect Granite, was just WOW.

The trip didn't really start off this way however!

After long delays in Kathmandu nerves were building, by the time myself and my team (emma, rosamond and tim) had made it into the Khumbu and were spying Ama we were absolutely terrified- looking at it, you'd think it was almost impossible to climb.

I said to myself again and again: "this will be the last, no more expeditions, just finish this and then get a normal job which has a higher chance of survival"

It made me feel better to think that I would never have to endure the suffering that was about to unfold again. I KNEW what was coming, i think that was the problem.

We finally made it to base camp and Ama loomed over us- at night it's white flanks were illuminated in the moon light and the stars shone about it. It was always there. Even lying in my tent at night i was aware of its presence and was thinking: "will this be the one where my luck runs out?"

The route takes a never ending rocky ridge line up the the summit fields- where the angle is steep to the point of needing to front point on your crampons. The hanging glacier (dablam) sits precariously to the left, and the final top out is a straight push up steep ice and snow. The summit is crevassed and will one day collapse. The entire route is fixed with anchors which in the UK i wouldn't dream of using as protection- the mushroom ridge for instance, boasting stakes wobbling like jelly in loose, sugary snow.

The day before the summit push i had a wash at basecamp, i emptied out the bowl of dirty water, turned around and saw a familiar face: "lakpa?" it was lakpa Wongchu! The climbing sherpa who had been with me on Everest summit day, without his help would i be here today? Not sure. I owe him and others my life. We hugged, and then i duly burst into sobs of tears. Nice.

This trip had made me realise just how much that day still haunts me- more than anything i wanted to climb this mountain to prove to Lakpa and to the people who helped me that day that i was capable of descending without getting injured. It's a vulgar word but this mountain for me was about 'closure'... putting an end to the demons that have haunted me ever since the 17th May 2010.

The real climbing on the mountain starts after camp 1. When it comes to expeditions i am very anal- if we say we're leaving at 8am i am walking out of camp at one second past 8. Luckily, Lakpa Wongchu was also ready and thus we had a great head start on the way up to camp 3- nobody in front of us for the entire route, no waiting around at anchors. Just the two of us climbing in unison and moving quickly over the terrain that Lakpa new so well.

I said to Lakpa that if he took lots of photos he could have my cannon 500D, which he happily agreed to- so all these photos are his, and he did an awesome job.

The climbing from camp 1 to 3 is great fun- lots of rock, the most perfect granite i have ever seen and if this mountain was at sea level it would have some fantastic climbing routes on it in the VS to HVS range.

The route follows the jagged ridge line up to the bottom of the summit pyramid. Theres lots of traversing, short pitches of climbing and also the infamous yellow tower (HVS rock climb) and grey tower (scottish grade III gulley)both were exhilirating- especially the top of the yellow tower where you are presented with an overhang- i threw my hand over the top, found a hold and just hauled my body over onto the platform, thousands of feet of air and cloud beneath me- just wow.

The grey tower was more exhausting- by this point we had put on crampons and whilst this had its benefits it also made my intuition when trying to climb a little confused- anyway, i scratched my way up and used the jumar to ascend when i had the energy- though generally wherever possible on the mountain i tried to use my hands and feet to get higher- jumaring reguires far too much brute strength and i find that after 2 or 3 (sometimes 1) pull on it and i am gasping for breath- plus it aggravates my back, so i climbed as much as possible, using the jumar as a safety and anchor for resting on route- which is nice!

Throughout the trip i was using a karrimor X-Lite rucsac which was perfect for this terrain- the lightest pack i have ever used and very slim so that it didn't get in the way of the climbing. I was also wearing a Karrimor baselayer (pink) which is quite a novel colour in the hills!

Finally made camp 3 and the morning dawned on summit day- we decided to leave at 8, and so we were- bang on. Lakpa and I moving at our steady pace, soon we were ahead and had nobody infront of us all the way to the summit- looking up, the mountain was all ours.

The climbing in the early hours was tough, the altitude (now above 6000m) was beginning to bite, and the blinding exhaustion as lactic acid builds up in your body after a few moments of effort started to become the norm. it was also very cold- but i had my headphones on (playing chase and status, naturally) and could see the halo of the sun up above me, I could also see the golden tint to the snow up ahead which signalled warmth- it drove me on, and i climbed as fast as i could until i was bathed in that beautiful sunlight.

At around 10am i got a call over the radio, Lakpa passed it to me. it was Henry from BC, he said: "Bonita, you're about to pass a dead body. Please remember that there's nothing you can do- the soul has gone. Stay calm and go past it, just stay calm. I'm here if you need me."

I could see him up ahead, on the route, tied into the fixed lines. He had died 48 hours previously. All i could think was: his family. And then: 'i want to speak to my dad. I can't do this until i've spoken to him.'

Lakpa, patted my back and signalled for us to carry on. When we got above him at an anchor we both said a prayer and poured water into the snow as an offering. Then we carried onto the summit, i couldn't stop crying.

Finally, we made it- Lakpa and I stook on the top of Ama Dablam at 11.45 on the 17th November 2011. We had made it 3.45minutes out of camp 3- a great effort, but in the back of my mind i was already thinking about the descent- we were halfway.

First of all we sat and ate chocolate, then stood up on the big, flat plateau that is the summit and took photos of each other. I put on my karrimor down jacket to keep warm whilst we weren't moving so much.

When we sat down again we were looking at Everest. I said to Lakpa: "you saved my life over there, i know that" He didn't look me in the eye, but nodded. It was closure, finally- exactly 18 months to the day since it had happened.

We descended back to camp by abseiling and arm wrapping in around 2 hours, and the next day back to base camp.

I came into base camp ahead of the others for no other reason than that i wanted to walk alone. When i arrived in the evening twilight Pasang Tempa grabbed me by the bum and lifted me in the air! Henry said to me: "Bonita, you've done a 360- the difference between this and Everest is a 360, well done"

That night i got into my tent and laid down on (wait for it) a thin tent mattress, karrimat and a thermarest- it was THE most comfortable bed i have ever lain on and as i sunk into it all the stresses and worries and doubts that you take with you on the mountain melted away. I was blissfully happy. it was a perfect ascent and i had Lakpa and Henry to thank for it. I thought about the man we had passed, said a prayer and then thanked God that i was still alive.

As we flew back to Kathmandu a few days later from Lukla I surveyed the Khumbu from above- this little known part of the world has become by chance the most important of places in my little life. I know i will visit again, many, many times.

I thought as we flew away from the Himalayas and back to the city- this trip, this mountain, this country- taking the risk, knowing that i could fail utterly- but getting to climb with Lakpa and thank him for what he did as we looked across at Everest from the summit of Ama Dablam- the whole experience has simply bought me back to life.

I'm ready and psyched for the future, my love affair with the hills has been re-ignited and I can't wait to take on more challenges in the mountains in the years ahead.

Taking the risk on Ama bought me from the dark back into the light. Never give up on what you love. There will be good times as well as bad- and both are needed to truly live.

It begins again in the spring! Lhotse is calling.

Standing by for now...

Bonita

Thank you to Henry, Lakpa Wongchu, Jabu, Dorje, Pasang Temba, Kumar, Kame, Emma Tim and Rosamond for this incredible trip, one which I will never forget.

Thank you to Karrimor for supporting this expedition and for providing kit which i wore throughout.

Base Camp

After delay upon delay due to bad weather over Lukla, my team and I (Emma, Tim and Rosmund) decide to charter a helicopter from Katmandu to a lower village in the Khumba. Reports are 300+ trekkers and climbers stranded at both ends due to the stagnant cloud, meaning that domestic flights are grounded. Today (9th) flights have finally resumed. We, the lucky ones, are now at our base camp at the foot of Ama Dablam (6812m). It's a spectacular mountain- absolutely beautiful. Base camp is at 4600m and we're all feeling great. It's fairly cold- I'm wearing my karrimor down jacket, especially in the evenings. The sun disappears behind the mountains and a chill settles- the clouds fall and the moon rises over Ama Dablams left shoulder.

We've seen shooting stars and the Scorpio constellation (my birth sign) dominated the night sky. The days- we have high pressure so brilliant blue skies and little wind. The sun rises and finally tips over the peaks at about 8am and the air temperature rises rapidly. Last night, the first in my tent at BC, was particularly cold and despite my minus 40 sleeping bag I was kept awake by the night time freeze.

Today we had our Puja and went through kit for the hill. Things will start to move fast from now so I won't have a chance to write again. I'm feeling strong- no coughs, colds or injuries yet and no headaches or altitude related problems so I'm optimistic about going higher. The route looks very cool, and nothing like I've seen before on Everest or Manaslu- so a whole new challenge awaits.

Standing by for now

Ama Dablam

Just about to head out the door to Heathrow- a whirlwind of kit bags, check lists, passport, tickets- I think i'm there.

Flying to Doha tonight then on route to Kathmandu tomorrow. Looking forward to being back in the city for the third time, it's a crazy place- where faith, religion, culture, consumerism, west and east collide.

For climbers its a special place- lots of bars, restaurants and small shops built up over the years as our gateway to the Himalayas.

Fly into the Khumbu valley on Monday. One of the world's most dangerous landing strips awaits. Then we start our trek to base camp, staying in tea houses, eating daal Baht every night and craning our necks to see jagged tops of the Himalayan giants standing over us.

Pangboche is the last village below Ama Dablam- our Quarry. At 6856m it's a beautiful peak. We will spend the rest of our time in the Himalayas trying to reach the top of it.

I'm climbing with a friend from my first trip to the Himalayas- Emma Jack, we're using logistics from Himalayan Guides and climbing with a small team. Thank you to my family, friends, supporters and sponsor karrimor. My dad- my rock.

Who knows what awaits. Another adventure begins... psyched!!!

Summer

So September has crept up on us and another summer has come to a close,though here's hoping for a few more days out on the rock before it gets too cold :)

And what a summer it has been, for me it began after returning from the Arctic Circle and our team's successful last degree expedition to the North Pole. We skied in average temperatures of minus 30 and the sun never set. Arriving home in May I pretty much drove straight to sea cliff climbing at Swanage (Hi mum! Bye mum!), had a bit of an accident descending into a route using a fixed rope and ended up in A&E with a very painful foot!

Days later I was back the airport on a flight to Toulouse for some hot rock in the Pyrenees with a climbing buddy, Rich. We were met at the other side by Rich's friend's Adam and Dawn and spent a great week driving around France visiting various crags, getting tanned and climbing pristine rock with the sun on our backs. I managed to onsight a 6a line and went home very chuffed considering that my foot was still swollen and didn't really move much! Thanks Adam and Dawn for hosting us :)

By June England had some hot rock of its own and some great weekends were spent down in Devon at Baggy Point on the 40m slabs that jutted out of the Atlantic ocean. A fun afternoon was spent with fellow Karrimor athlete David Pickford on the Promentory Slab getting shots for our sponsors. Nights were spent sleeping in caves at Hedbury, long evenings messing about on the boulders at Froggatt, days swimming in the River Test, some speeding across the Solent on a RIB and weekends bivvying on the summit of Mt Snowdon.

In between weekends of climbing work was super busy- i've been hot footing it between Leeds, Sheffield, Harrogate, Newcastle, Wiltshire, London- the list goes on. One minute it's speaking at a corporate event in the city with spectacular views overlooking the London skyline, the next i'm kicking off my heels in the car and heading straight off for a weekend of sleeping in a tent. Sofa surfing and hotel rooms have become the norm and i've been lucky enough to meet some sporting legends such as Peter Shilton, Tim Henman and Graham Bell, who are also supported by Sports Direct, along the way.







Once July was out my work diary for August was a massive blank, with 4 weeks to play with this was quickly filled with trips abroad.

First up- some Alpine climbing for Trek & Mountain magazine. Accompanied by editor Chris Kempster i packed my rucsac and headed to Chamonix, where we firstly met with BMG Chris Ensoll and bagged a 4000m peak (the Weismeiss in Saas, Switzerland). I somehow managed an AD route called the Dri Hornli traverse with a raging hangover after the Les Houche pub quiz with the lovely Emma Jack, who was a great friend when we climbed an 8000m peak together back in 2009. We attempted Mont Blanc with IFMGA guide Tim Connerley but were twarted by the weather and only got as far as the Gouter hut- third time lucky next year i hope... check out Trek & Mountain magazine for the full details of that very sketchy 24 hours on the Blanc!

Back from the Alps and i was pretty much straight back to the aiport for a trip to Norway, again for Trek and Mountain Magazine. We spent 4 days being shown around the Fjords by the lovely Hanne- we trekked up a mountain, ate lots of good food and got to visit a UNESCO world heritage site. All i can say is: Visit Norway! It's an incredible place.





Finally, 48 hours after getting off a plane from Alesund i was back at T4 pushing a huge kit bag through departures on my way to Africa- Tanzania to be precise, to attempt Kilimanjaro with a team raising money for the charity Cash 4 Kids through Radio Wave 105.

We trekked the Lomosho Glades route and were blessed with great weather. Summit day went smoothly and 9 out of 11 reached the sign on the edge of the huge crater which marked the summit. I'm psyched to be leading two teams out there next year on the same route, but very much missing the people i've spent the last 10 days eating, sleeping and experiencing such a beautiful place with, aawww!

Back from the mountain that day, a few of us summoned the energy to visit the infamous night club, la Liga, in Moshi. We partied until gone 2am, taxied back to hotel, woke the rest of our team and went straight to the aiport- no sleep! An internal flight, a 4 hour stop over in Nairobi and finally a last 8 hour flight to heathrow and we were home and straight out for drinks with the Reading Climbing Centre team (still no sleep). A big thanks to Camps International for supporting my place on the trip, and to our fantastic team of guides, cooks and porters lead by Kassim. Visit www.rjseven.com for more info on climbing Kili :)





And that leads me to now- sitting on my bed, uploading a summer's worth of photos onto my computer and remembering some great moments but also planning some new ones for the winter. I'm hoping upon hope to get out to the Himalayas in November to attempt a peak just shy of 7000m, but for now its back to work with a very busy September of talks at schools and businesses across the country, including a 3 peaks challenge at the end of the month with Artillery, whom i gave a talk for in the city a few months ago and have gotten a bug for climbing of their own- can't wait for what should be a fantastic weekend!


Will keep this updated on whether i make it out to the Himalaya. If you'd like to catch me at an event in the next few weeks i'm speaking at the Night of Adventure in Bristol in October, which raises money for a great charity- Hope and Homes for children. Check their website for tickets :)

thanks for reading... B